Arnhem Way Itinerary: Darwin to Arnhem Land by 4WD

Head south from Darwin on the Stuart Highway and settle into the rhythm of the Top End. Termite mounds punctuate the savanna, wedge-tailed eagles soar on thermals, and wetlands give way to paperbark forests. This gentle first leg lets you stock up on supplies and ease into outback life before you turn off toward Arnhem Land tomorrow. 

Where to stop between Darwin and Katherine 

Berry Springs Nature Park: Cool off in clear pools fringed by monsoon forest. Adelaide River: Pause at the war cemetery and grab a cold drink in town.  

Edith Falls (Leliyn): If time allows, walk to the upper pools for a scenic swim among red rock escarpments. 

Things to do in Katherine 

Stroll the leafy main street, pick up fresh produce, and, if daylight and energy permit, take a sunset cruise or short walk in Nitmiluk Gorge to see the sandstone glow. Katherine is your last major supermarket hub before the Central Arnhem Road, so plan your pantry carefully. 

Where to stay in Katherine 

Settle in at a holiday park with shade, a pool, and powered sites. Options include BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park or Katherine Holiday Park, both convenient for an early start tomorrow. 

Turn east off the Stuart Highway onto the Central Arnhem Road and watch the bitumen give way to the iconic red. This is true 4WD territory, with corrugations, creek crossings in season, and wildlife along the verges. Drop your tyre pressures, keep speeds conservative, and enjoy the vastness as woodland unfolds to big-sky plains. 

Where to stop between Katherine and Mainoru 

Beswick (Wugularra) and Djilpin Arts: Enjoy barista coffee, browse Aboriginal art, and, if available, join a cultural talk or tour.  

Roadside photo stops: Pull over safely for shots of boabs, red dirt horizons, and birdlife around waterholes. 

Things to do at Mainoru 

Arrive mid-afternoon to unwind by the Mainoru River. Stretch your legs, look for agile wallabies at dusk, and listen for kookaburras and honeyeaters in the paperbarks. This is a great spot to top up fuel and basics before tomorrow’s remote run. 

Where to stay in Mainoru 

Mainoru Outstation Store offers a friendly campground with powered and unpowered sites and hot showers. It is a comfortable, well-timed stop after your first day on the Central Arnhem Road. 

Today carries you deeper into Arnhem Land country. The road rolls over low rises and creek lines, with changing woodland and occasional floodplain vistas. Keep an eye out for brolgas, black kites, and the occasional water buffalo near wetlands. Services are sparse and self-sufficiency is essential. 

Where to stop between Mainoru and Goyder River 

Bulman (Gulin Gulin): Last fuel and a small store before Nhulunbuy. Check your levels and grab snacks.  

Rest bays and safe pullouts: Short leg-stretch stops to look for birdlife and photograph the landscape. 

Things to do in the Goyder River region 

Set up well back from water in a designated area, watch the sky blaze with sunset, and stargaze in one of Australia’s least light-polluted regions. Do not swim. Assume crocodiles are present in all Top End waterways unless clearly signed otherwise. 

Where to stay near Goyder River 

Overnight only at designated camping zones that are signed open on the day. Facilities are minimal or non-existent, so bring everything you need and pack out all waste. Camping and overnighting must comply with your Northern Land Council permit conditions and any directions from Traditional Owners or rangers. 

Expect a longer day behind the wheel as the track transitions toward the coast. Woodland gives way to dune country and the first hints of sea breeze. By afternoon you roll into one of Australia’s most remote beach towns and the hub of East Arnhem Land. 

Where to stop between Goyder River and Nhulunbuy 

Safe pullouts and lookouts: Pause for photos of open plains and dune country when conditions allow.  

Yirrkala turnoff: Take note for tomorrow’s cultural visit to the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre. 

Things to do in Nhulunbuy 

Walk East Woody Beach to the tidal sand spit toward Dhamitjinya (East Woody Island) at low tide, or catch the afternoon light on Town Beach. This becomes your base for a couple of days of cultural immersion, beach time, and fishing or 4WD adventure. Always follow local safety advice on tides, stingers, and crocodiles. 

Where to stay in Nhulunbuy 

Book a powered site at Manyimi Campground within the Gove Boat Club for beachfront camping and easy access to town amenities, or choose the Walkabout Lodge which offers rooms and powered sites. Town Beach is day use only, with no overnight camping. 

Dedicate today to Yolngu art and culture alongside relaxed beach exploring. The Yirrkala community is home to the renowned Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre, one of Australia’s most significant Indigenous art galleries, where exquisite bark paintings, memorial poles, carvings, and the historically important church panels share stories of land and tradition. 

Things to do in Nhulunbuy and Yirrkala 

Start with a morning visit to Buku-Larrnggay Mulka to browse exhibitions and, when available, join a talk about the artworks’ stories and the artists’ connection to Country. Afterward, return to Nhulunbuy for a coastal walk and beach time. East Woody’s long stretch of sand is perfect for a mindful stroll and photography, while Town Beach is a lovely spot to picnic. Swim only where it is signed safe. 

Where to stay in Nhulunbuy 

Stay another night at Manyimi Campground or the Walkabout Lodge. Both options keep you close to town facilities while you explore. 

With Dhimurru permits in hand, spend the day exploring the coast. The Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation manages a string of spectacular recreation sites that showcase East Arnhem’s pristine beaches, dunes, and headlands. Alternatively, join a local fishing charter to tap into world-class sportfishing. 

Things to do around the Gove Peninsula 

Beach lovers can make for Ngumuy (Turtle Beach), a sheltered cove with white sand and clear water for a picnic and a shoreline wander. Little Bondi and Rainbow Cliffs are also stunning, each with its own character and outlook. Alternatively, anglers can join a charter in search of barramundi in the estuaries or Spanish mackerel, coral trout, red emperor, golden snapper, and queenfish offshore. Whichever you choose, leave no trace, respect cultural sites, and follow all permit conditions. 

Where to stay in Nhulunbuy 

Return to your Nhulunbuy base. For a special treat in future travel plans, consider arranging a visit to Banubanu Beach Retreat on Bremer Island. Boat transfers, permits, and advance bookings are essential, and operations are seasonal. 

Begin the journey back along the Central Arnhem Road. Leaving the coast behind, you trace your way through eucalypt woodland and paperbark-lined creeks to a familiar bush-camp setting. Take it slow, stop for photos, and appreciate the subtle shifts in colour and light as you return inland. 

Where to stop between Nhulunbuy and Goyder River 

Roadside pullouts: Capture farewell shots of the coast and dune country before the inland takes over.  

Birdwatching stops: Scan for brolgas on open plains and raptors riding the thermals. 

Things to do in the Goyder River region 

Set up camp in daylight, then enjoy a simple outback evening. Brew a billy tea, watch the Milky Way appear, and listen for night sounds of the bush. Maintain crocodile safety practices near any water and keep campsites tidy. Pack out all rubbish. 

Where to stay near Goyder River 

Overnight only in designated camping zones signed open for camping, and follow your permit’s rules. There are no facilities, so be fully self-contained. 

Retrace your path to Mainoru, where hot showers and a shady lawn await. The return leg offers a different perspective on the same country, with morning light on pandanus and paperbarks and wedge-tailed eagles riding thermals. 

Where to stop between Goyder River and Mainoru 

Bulman (Gulin Gulin): Top up fuel and snacks, and chat with locals about current road conditions.  

Shady rest spots: Short breaks to stretch and scan the treeline for honeyeaters and red-tailed black cockatoos. 

Things to do at Mainoru 

Reward yourself with a relaxed afternoon. Rinse the dust, restock for the final two days, and sit by the river to watch the sunset light up the sky. 

Where to stay in Mainoru 

Mainoru Outstation Store campground offers powered and unpowered sites with hot showers and friendly hospitality, ideal before your run back to Katherine. 

Bid farewell to the Central Arnhem Road and swing back onto the Stuart Highway toward Katherine. The savanna opens, traffic picks up slightly, and the comfort of town draws near. Reflect on the remarkable stretch of country you’ve crossed and the cultural stories you’ve encountered along the way. 

Where to stop between Mainoru and Katherine 

Beswick (Wugularra): If you missed Djilpin Arts on the way in, stop now for coffee and a final browse.  

Barunga turnoff: A brief leg stretch and a window into community life on the savanna. 

Things to do in Katherine 

Back in town, take a gentle swim at the thermal springs at nearby Katherine Hot Springs, or enjoy a casual pub meal to celebrate the return to sealed roads. If time allows, pop back out for a golden-hour photo near Nitmiluk. 

Where to stay in Katherine 

Return to BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park or Katherine Holiday Park for a comfortable final night on the road, with shady sites and a pool to cap off your outback loop. 

The final run north to Darwin is a gentle cooldown, with plenty of places to pause for wildlife and waterholes. Keep your camera handy for wetlands birdlife and roadside mango stalls in season. 

Where to stop between Katherine and Darwin 

Edith Falls (Leliyn): One last walk to an escarpment lookout, if you didn’t stop earlier in the trip. Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve: Boardwalks and prolific birdlife when water levels allow. Berry Springs Nature Park: A final freshwater dip before city life resumes. 

Things to do in Darwin 

Roll back into Darwin with a head full of red-dirt memories. If time permits before drop-off, swing by a waterfront café for a celebratory drink, or browse local galleries for Top End art to take home. 

Where to stay in Darwin 

If you are lingering in the city, choose a centrally located holiday park or hotel. Otherwise, return your Britz 4WD to the Darwin branch and start planning your next Top End adventure. 

Permits and planning recap: Travel the Arnhem Way only with the correct permits and approvals. You must carry a Northern Land Council transit permit for the Central Arnhem Road, Dhimurru permits for recreation areas and camping around Nhulunbuy, and written permission from thl to take your Britz 4WD into Arnhem Land. Check seasonal access, site closures, and daily vehicle limits for places like Wanuwuy (Cape Arnhem). Always respect cultural sites, obey signage, and leave no trace. 

This itinerary keeps driving sensible, builds in time for art, beaches, fishing, and wildlife, and showcases one of Australia’s most remarkable cultural landscapes. When you are ready, you can easily book your Britz camper online and pick it up from the Britz Darwin branch before hitting the road.